Davis Life Magazine
Written by: Natalie Repin
Rolling onto Davis' celebrated sushi scene is the fresh and funky Mikuni Japanese restaurant and sushi bar. A far cry from the traditionally zen ambiance of the more common Japanese eatery, Mikuni - often dubbed "Mikuni's" by patrons - is, as restaurant CEO Derrick Fong describes, "cozy and comfortable yet up-tempo and lively."
True to Derrick's word, this new local haunt is equal parts trendy, social and fabulously boisterous. The décor is streamlined and modern, which provides for the interesting paradigm of an urban sports bar set in a quaint cow town. It is an experience unto itself, where college-age patrons may be spotted pounding sake bombs at the bar (the act of chugging a shot of Japanese rice wine dropped into a glass of beer), while nearby families try a taste of the menu's surplus sushi rolls - Pimp my Roll, Marilyn Monroll, and the Davis Roll, to highlight a few of the restaurant's selections. Flat-screen televisions flank the restaurant walls and provide for a constant stream of sports-related background noise.
However, the pomp and circumstance of Mikuni is not gimmicky, and the food - though a bit on the steeper side in terms of Davis sushi prices - is often applauded for its flavor and freshness. Those who do not prefer sushi can dabble in a myriad of other meal options, such as Udon noodles, vegetable tempura and chicken teriyaki.
Derrick explains that introducing a Davis branch of Mikuni has been a long time coming. In fact, before Bistro 33 took up its now signature location on the corner of 3rd and F, there was talk about Mikuni obtaining that site. According to Derrick, the time was simply not right.
Fast-forward to April 2009, and Mikuni has finally made its debut at its current location in the Davis Commons, former home of Fuzio restaurant. Limited space required Derrick and his team of dedicated staff to "think New York" as they considered venue logistics. The five Mikuni branches located within the greater Sacramento area boast the luxury of second stories and greater square footage.
However, Derrick insists that Mikuni's local touch resonates with the community and has contributed to the restaurant's warm welcome. "We think local and we are big supporters of this town," he explains. "Whatever our guests want, we provide." In fact, Derrick's wife is a UC Davis alumna, and he has made sure to incorporate student touches into this location.
For example, a collage of decorative photographs displaying students enjoying and consuming sushi will be erected on one of the restaurant walls - quite the Aggie statement! In addition, he says to lookout for the debut of a new sushi roll, tentatively dubbed the "Aggie Roll."
UC Davis fourth-year Alicia Bulleri admits that she has rapidly become a regular of Mikuni. "I just love the fun atmosphere, and I maintain that it is the best sushi in Davis," she gushes. Alicia recommends the Peter 2 roll (a delectable combination of deep fried shrimp, crab salad, tuna, avocado, eel, spicy dream sauce, masago and onion), a personal favorite of hers.
The branch as a whole emerged onto the sushi scene in 1987, and Derrick hopped on board in 1993. Since then, he has remained passionate about maintaining the quality of four aspects of the Mikuni franchise: its "food, service, ambiance and eclecticness."
In Davis, where sushi buffets are as popular as the town's affinity for Mini Cooper cars and crocs, Mikuni has made quite the impression already. "Our toughest competition is ourselves," Derrick remarks. "We always aim to better ourselves."